Sustainability Science

An innovative new chemical recycling solution for PET and polyester is on the precipice of commercial release having been funded by the EU’s Horizon’s 2020 programme and backed by a consortium of companies including H&M.

Chemical recycling has long since been touted for use in the fashion and textile industries but costing complexities have stifled its progress for the large part – with the exception of a new solution developed late last year by Eastman – shining a spotlight on what Swiss business Gr3n is vying to introduce.

At the Textiles Exchange event being held here in Canada, the two retail giants told delegates how they ran over 8,000 tests on cotton textiles that were randomly collected from recyclers in Europe, finding that over 20 per cent of post-consumer samples contained APEO’s, around 10 per cent of the these samples also contained formaldehydes, with detectable levels of heavy metals, organotins, PAH (polyaromatic hydrocarbons) and phthalates also present. Actual detection rates were not disclosed.

“Recycled materials are key elements in a circular economy. However, increasing the use of recycled materials whilst ensuring that we keep these textiles free of toxic chemicals presents a challenge for the industry,” noted Anna Biverstål, Global Business Expert on Materials at H&M Group.

The two companies hope that other brands and retailers will join their efforts and say that the results will be disclosed freely for the industry to use as they branch out investigations into polyester and wool-rich textiles. 

Sadly, instead of increased transparency and commitments, fashion CEOs are hiding behind greenwashed PR campaigns, like the disappointing announcement made by Levi’s, Gap, Guess, Wrangler, and Lee at a New York climate week event this past autumn. CEOs of the world’s famous denim brands said they would announce climate targets in two years, a deadline far longer than necessary to complete a basic step. While these CEOs continue to delay the climate commitment process, denim supply chains are continuing to pump carbon dioxide into the atmosphere without recourse.

One brand that is innovating through recycling is San Francisco-based Everlane. Over the past few years, it has become known for offering quality basics at reasonable prices, while operating with transparency on their ethical supply chain. Recently they announced a line called ReNew - outerwear, such as puffer jackets, parkas and fleeces - made entirely of recycled plastic bottles. The range of classic garments comes in a selection of neutral tones, with offerings for men and women.

Clearly, 3-D printing is on the move. But don’t get too carried away and expect it to replace established manufacturing techniques. Don’t look for all manufacturing to shift to retail stores, to parcel delivery depots or to your home or mine. Instead, 3-D will supplement current manufacturing at various supply chain nodes in some key segments.

Reps from Greenpeace and the United Food and Commercial Workers union explain why those organizations are driving a recent campaign against Walmart over worker wellbeing up and down the supply chain.